March 2017 Archives

It's not all Bourbon and Wine here in this time of Beer Recession. We also like to tackle the weird, off-the-beaten path offerings, like distilled beer... (Yeah, yeah, "beer" is used in a more general sense in this distilling literature, but look where you are! I'm referring to commercial beer offerings like Racer 5 or Duvel. Get with the program, people.)

During last year's 6 Weeks of Halloween (an annual horror movie marathon centered around that bestest of holidays), I wanted to get something seasonal and an alternative to pumpkin-spiced everything. Looking at various available options, I settled on Laird's 12 Year Old Apple Brandy.

Established in 1780, Laird's bills itself as "America's oldest native distillery" and is based in New Jersey and Virginia. They make 6 expressions, one a standard Applejack (a blend of Apple Brandy and neutral grain spirits), a bonded Apple Brandy, an Unbonded Apple Brandy (still at 100 proof), an unaged edition, a 7.5 year old Apple Brandy, and the 12 Year Old that I'll be reviewing today. Apparently the Bonded Apple Brandy is the Van Winkle of the category, fueled by ravenous bartenders and their cocktail-swilling patrons. Alas, the 12 year old, while a fine pour, didn't quite scratch the itch I was looking for, feeling more like a light bourbon or maybe a generic brandy:

Laird's 12 Year Old Apple Brandy - Pours a clear golden orange color. Smells oaky, sweet, and fruity, though I don't know that I'd peg this as apple brandy were I trying it blind. Maybe because I know this is apple brandy, if I do the olfactory equivalent of squinting, I can kinda see it as being apple-based. The taste is pretty well dominated by oak, maybe a faint hint of generic fruit, some spice, but really just dry oak all the way through and especially in the finish. Mouthfeel is light (perhaps owing to the lowish proof) and a little dry. Overall, this feels more like a standard bourbon than apple brandy, though it does have more fruity notes than bourbon. Frankly, I was hoping for a more clear apple character. C+

Brandy Nerd Details: 88 Proof, 44% ABV bottled (750 ml). Drank out of a glencairn glass on 3/26/17.

Beer Nerd Musings: I've had two beers that were aged in Laird's Apple Brandy barrels, both from Voodoo (whose barrel program is small but quite impressive). Gran Met uses a tripel base and took on a huge amount of Apple Brandy character, almost like a boozy apple pie in liquid form. The Apple Brandy Black Magick has a bigger, bolder stout base, but the Apple Brandy still comes through. As such, I think I'll need to track down some of the bonded/unbonded hooch to get that seasonal character I was missing in the 12 year old.

Fellow Travelers: I probably wouldn't even have thought of this if Sku's Recent Eats hadn't been tearing through various Apple Brandy products in October of last year (i.e. prime 6 Weeks of Halloween territory). Alas, I procured my bottle of Laird's just before he reviewed it, with similar results. Had I waited a little and saw his review, I probably would have tried to track down one of the "younger" products that seem to display more apple character...

A nice enough detour; up next comes more bourbon and maybe some tea. Also some syrup and hot sauce that... are more relevant than you might think. I know, I know, those last few aren't alcoholic. Whatever shall we do? I think we'll just have to get over it. Further out, we might have another unusual non-whiskey, beer-adjacent spirit on its way, so stay tuned.

Get your fainting pillow ready: I haven't drank much French wine. I'd say I'm the worst but you guys know this is a beer blog, right?

This bottle hails from the hills of the Rhone valley and thus sports a Côtes du Rhône Villages appellation, specifically the northwest facing slopes in the south of the area and oh geeze, I'm getting into that micro-climate terroir territory here, aren't I? I'm sure this is important, but this doesn't mean enough to me just yet, so let's move on to the varietal, which is 100% Syrah. Aged for 14 months in oak barrels too. Looking around, I see that these wines are "great for aging" and indeed, many reviews seem to indicate that it could use some time in the bottle before drinking. Fortunately, I'm drinking this about a year after those reviews were written, so let's get to it:

2014 Domaine Fond Croze Côtes du Rhône Villages les Roches - Pours a dark maroon, purplish red color. Smells fantastic, lots of fruit, almost tart fruit, maybe a floral note or earthy note too. Taste is rich, dark fruit and berries up front with a helping of mineral earthiness and leather or tobacco or something, but then it lightens up a bit and brings out an almost (but not quite) tart note towards the finish, which only displays moderate tannins. Some oak is present too, but so much that it overpowers anything. Mouthfeel is rich and coating, medium to full bodied, only moderately dry. Seems to pair well, but also drinks well on its own. Overall, this is quite nice!

Wine Nerd Details: 14% ABV bottled (750 ml). Drank out of a wine glass on 3/25/17. Vintage: 2014.

Food Pairing: Fronch fries. Fronch dressing. Fronch bread. And to drink... Peru. Or just the standard red wine pairing of grilled steak, sauteed mushrooms, and some steamed string beans. The wine was able to stand up to the hearty meal, but was also quite good on its own.

Beer Nerd Musings: I don't appear to have had a beer aged in old Syrah barrels, but the treatment isn't that unusual either (usually sours). I'm almost certain that BFM's Abbaye De Saint Bon-Chien series uses Syrah barrels in some vintages, but that's a blend from a bunch of different barrels, so not exactly a pure expression. And look here, BFM does make a version of their XV (√225 Saison) that is aged on actual Syrah grapes, so there is that. Also Jester King's Biere De Syrah, which I wouldn't mind trying. Hint, hint. Cause I assume one of my five readers is from Austin or something. What was I talking about?

I quite enjoyed this. Since it supposedly ages well, I may have to snag another while it's still at the PA Chairman's Selection pricing... though its still a bit pricey (on the other hand, it's nowhere near the infamously expensive French wines...) And the great 2017 Beer Recession continues unabated. Stay tuned for some Apple Brandy later this week, followed by a couple of Bourbons next week...

Portland, Maine's Bissell Brothers opened their doors in December of 2013 and almost immediately garnered attention from the Northeast IPA devoted. These days, the faithful making the pilgrimage to Vermont are tempted to detour even further north to check out the likes of Bissell Brothers, along with contemporaries like Foundation and stalwarts like Allagash. By this statement, I mean that I have certainly been tempted to make such a trek, and I'm sure the inevitable Operation Lobster (to keep in like with Operation Cheddar or Operation Chowder) will be forthcoming sometime in the nearish future.

One of the distinctive things about Northeast IPAs is their usage of adjuncts like wheat, oats, or rye (amongst others) in addition to barley. That being said, these IPAs don't always display the characteristics you might expect from these additions. Case in point: Bissell Brothers' Lux bills itself as a Rye Ale, but in nearly every other respect, it comes off as a pale ale or light IPA. All the standard attributes (appearance, aroma, taste, mouthfeel, etc...) indicate such and there's almost none of that characteristic spicy, sour-like rye flavor, but that's the rub. Not your father's roggenbier:

Bissell Brothers LUX Rye Ale - Pours a pale golden orange color with a finger of white, tight bubbled head that leaves a little lacing as I drink. Smells fantastic, huge tropical fruit hops (Mosaic here for sure), NEIPA juicy aromas, but some more floral notes too (dat Centennial). Taste has that citrus and floral character, but rye spice comes through just a tiny a bit here too, making it a little more complex (or maybe I'm just looking for it? Not sure if I'd pick it up blind...), finishing with just a hint of bitter dryness. Mouthfeel is perfect, light bodied, well carbonated, relatively dry, utterly quaffable but it also doesn't feel too light, if you know what I mean. Overall, this is rather fantastic. It feels a lot more like an IPA than a "rye beer" but who cares, it's great. A-

Beer Nerd Details: 5.1% ABV canned (16 ounce pounder). Drank out of a tulip glass on 3/16/17.

That's certainly a nice first impression. Many thanks to fellow BeerNERD Pete for trading the can my way. Will obviously be on the lookout for moar Bissell in the future.

During these times of beer recession, I find myself reaching for wine more than I would have thought. This despite being pretty clueless on the finer ins-and-outs of oenophilia. It can be pretty fun to just grab something off the shelf and explore, something that is less common for me when it comes to beer these days. Remember the days of Belgian beer roulette? Well, say hello to Italian wine roulette! I grabbed this bottle a little while ago knowing almost nothing about it other than that it was from Italy and had one of those ritzy DOC stickers.

How'd I do? It turns out that this is an Italian Amarone, typically a rich, dry red wine made from partially dried grapes. This particular bottle is made from grapes picked in October, then dried under shelter in the open air on flat wood crates until January or February. The classy name for this process is the "appassimento method", but most of us would just call these suckers raisins (perhaps not quite full-raisin, maybe just quasi-raisin). The "raisined" grapes are fermented and initially aged one year in stainless steel, followed by a lengthy 4-5 year stay in traditional, large Slovenian oak casks. This sounds quite intensive, so let's dig in:

Le Ragose 2007 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico - Pours a deep, dark, garnet red color. Smells of dark fruits, cherries, plums, and the like, some vanilla, and something a little more earthy. Taste hits those jammy fruits up front, then moves into an earthy, almost spicy note, followed by dry tannins in the finish. Mouthfeel is medium to full bodied, rich, and intense with moderate to high dryness. Definitely benefits from a pairing with rich, hearty dishes (I had steak and sauteed mushrooms). It's not quite the beast that Sagrantino can be, but it's on that spectrum and would you look at that, the ABV is certainly on the higher end and kinda snuck up on me... Overall, this is a great little Italian wine, intense, complex, and tasty. Let's call it a victory for Italian wine roulette!

Wine Nerd Details: 15.5% ABV bottled (750 ml). Drank out of a wine glass on 3/19/17. Varietals: Corvina, Rondinella, and Molinara. Vintage: 2007.

Food Pairing: As mentioned above, this wine kinda needs rich, hearty dishes, and I prepared a nice NY Strip steak and sauteed mushrooms, which fit the bill nicely.

Beer Nerd Musings: Alas, I am unaware of any Amarone barrel aged beers, though I think the intensity of the wine could pair well with some American Wild sours or maybe even non-sour stouts. I'd also be curious about the idea of using "raisined" grapes as an adjunct in beer as well. That could lend a certain intensity that would be interesting. Again, I'm not really aware of any beers that make use of this though... Opportunity, thy name is raisin. Or something.

I have another Italian wine in the pipeline, one that I'm told pairs well with pizza, so stay tuned.

Barrell Bourbon is a NDP that's nevertheless gained a following amongst whiskey dorks. It's also got an extra "L" on the end of their name there, which means... well, owner Joe Beatrice has declined to explain. My guess? It's a branding gambit. Searching for "Barrel Bourbon" will produce millions of irrelevant results, whilst "Barrell" (with the extra "l") will get you the right stuff.

We've covered NDP (non-distiller producer) before, so I won't harp on it, but it is the sort of thing that normally arouses suspicion in whiskey nerds. That being said, Barrell puts a few interesting spins on their philosophy. First, they're all bottled at cask strength, which is like catnip to whiskey dorks. Second, each batch is unique and will never be seen again. Exclusivity and rarity is always a draw. Third, while the sourcing is usually vague, most other details about the bourbon are often available (i.e. state of origin, mashbill, age statements, etc...) Fourth, they appear to be doing a good job of picking their barrels, so while they may not be as transparent as everyone would like, they have cultivated a reputation for quality.

What we have here is Batch 009, a 13 year old bourbon sourced from Tennessee with a mashbill of 75% corn, 18% rye, 7% malted barley. Again, Barrell does not specify the exact provenance, but reading around, I see that well-aged bourbon sourced from Tennessee is usually code for "George Dickel", so there is that. Let's dive in:

Barrell Bourbon Batch 009 - Pours a clear golden orange color with big legs. Smells quite oaky, lots of wood, vanilla, coconut, caramel, rye spice, something a little bready too. Taste has a nice rich caramel and molasses sort of thing going on, a little spicebox in the middle and finish. Oaky without being overly so, which is certainly in my wheelhouse. Mouthfeel is rich and coating, lots of alcohol heat, but in a pleasant, mellow way, with a finish that lasts a while. Overall, this is fabulous stuff, complex and balanced, great. Compares favorably to my favorite bourbons. A-

Whiskey Nerd Details: 112.10 proof, 56.05% ABV bottled (750 ml). Drank out of a glencairn glass on 3/14/16. Aged: 13 years. Vintage: 2016. Mash bill: 75% corn, 18% rye, 7% malted barley.

Beer Nerd Musings: I've already talked about the NDP parallels with contract brewing and gypsy brewers. Barrell's approach seems more reminiscent of Scotch's independent bottlers (except, of course, for the lack of transparency around the original distillery). The notion of each batch being unique (and not just from a "each single barrel is unique" sort of situation) is interesting and certainly speaks to the explosion of craft beer offerings. I mean, it's not Tired Hands with their ~900 different named beers in 3 years, but there's something to be said for the experience of drinking something you know you'll probably never get again. I have not ever had a beer aged in a George Dickel barrel, but they do exist, even if they don't seem particularly common. There are some beers that only specify being aged in a Tennessee whiskey barrel, which I suppose could also mean Dickel. If this bourbon is any indication, I think these barrels would work pretty well with beer (though this is perhaps too good to waste on homebrew!)

Fellow Travelers: As mentioned above, these bourbons have gained something of a following, so if you don't feel like taking a beer nerd's word for it, here's some other folks who've reviewed it:

• signde drinks gives it a B/B+ and calls it "this is the best by far" of Barrell batches he's had...
• The Bourbon Buddy gives it a 90-91 (A-) and also mentions that it's the best Barrell batch he's had...

So yes, I'm going to be keeping my eyes peeled for more Barrell batches, as this is a new favorite. I've got two more bourbons in the pipeline, and who knows what I'll find in the meantime. Up next this week, though, we move to wine. I might even have a beer review or two, even during my current beer hiatus. Or quasi-hiatus, as it were. Stay tuned!

I am entering that cyclical period of contraction which results in a general slowdown in drinking activity (i.e. a beer recession; like an economic recession, but nowhere near as dire). As with previous experiments on this sort of thing, this is not quite a strict ban on beer drinking (nor alcohol in general), just a reduction in consumption. The goals are pretty much the same as ever: break some bad habits, get my health in order, explore other realms of boozy glory, reset my palate, delay gratification, and so on.

Posting will slow down a bit for the next few weeks, but you can still expect one or two posts a week. Some will cover differing areas of booze (I've got some Wine and Bourbon on deck right now) and others might even involve non-alcoholic substances (customarily Tea, but I might throw something out there about maple syrup and/or hot sauce). As usual, while I might be writing about something other than my preferred beverage, I tend to do so from a beer dork's perspective, which I hope is enlightening. Indeed, I sometimes wonder what a whiskey or wine nerd would think about my posts on that topic... as if I have enough readers for that to matter! Anywho, I might even do a little straightup beer commentary while I'm at it, who knows?

When I started doing this a few years ago, I didn't really know what to expect, but I enjoyed it enough that I've done it every year since then. Detoxing and realigning for a while really does make for a triumphant return, and my waistline is usually pretty happy about it too. So stay tuned, we'll almost certaining be talking Wine and Bourbon next week...

Bravo was Firestone Walker's first barrel-aged beer, dating back to 2004 when they were still in the experimental stages of their first Anniversary blend (which is a process in itself). Since then, it's always been an available component, even if it wasn't bottled by itself and thus has not been widely imbibed. Labeled an imperial brown ale, it comes off as more of a highly attenuated strong ale hybrid barleywine type of thing (I believe that's the official industry designation of style); the sort of beer that would be useful in balancing out more sticky sweet barrel-aged offerings in a blend.

For the past few years, though, we've seen Firestone cycle through their various blend components, sometimes retiring other offerings to make room for new ones. In this case, they retired our beloved §ucaba barleywine, one of the classics of the style, in order to make room for Bravo. Them's some mighty big shoes to fill.

In addition, this is also the first of Firestone's Vintage Reserve line to be released in 12 ounce bottles (still boxed, which remains a nice touch). This is kinda funny because while I sometimes think large-format bottles are a bit of a bear (i.e. Patrick Rue is trying to kill us all), Firestone's beers are usually so well balanced and approachable that I could easily put down a bomber of any of their barrel-aged offerings. This does allow for more beer to be spread around though, and I suppose my waistline thanks them too. Prepare for the incoming "This was better in larger format bottles!" hot takes though.

Anywho, let's strap on our Raymond Chandler hat and see if this beer is "as deadly as the bravo's rapier":

Firestone Walker Bravo - Pours a clear amber hued brown color with half a finger of off-white head. Perhaps a little lighter in color than your typical brown, but it works. Smells very sweet and candy like with bourbon, oak, and vanilla kicking in too. Taste starts off sweet, rich caramel, moving into bit of bourbon, oak, and vanilla, finishing with a touch of darker (but not roasty) malt and hop bitterness. Mouthfeel is medium to full bodied, with moderate carbonation and some warming booze, not exactly "dry" but not as sticky sweet as Firestone's other barrel-aged beers. Overall, this is very good, I can see why it'd make a good blending component. On it's own, it's still worthy and worth seeking out. A-

Beer Nerd Details: 13.2% ABV bottled (12 ounce capped and boxed). Drank out of a snifter on 2/24/17. Vintage: 2017.

Always a joy to try something from Firestone's barrel aging program. At this point, I think I've tackled most of the obvious ones. The only things remaining are stuff like Imperial Walker's Reserve or Rye Double DBA, which seem substantially more limited than the others. Regardless, I look forward to trying more in time!